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Before buying agarwood or oud, ask: is it wild or plantation, and from which country or region? What does your grade name mean in terms of resin and density? For oil, is it 100 percent oud, how was it distilled, and has it been tested? For beads, are they carved or pressed, and treated or dyed? What documentation comes with it, and what is your return policy? Clear, consistent answers are a good sign.
- A good seller can answer quickly, because they know their own stock.
- Vague, defensive or changing answers are a warning sign.
- Get key claims and the return policy in writing before you pay.
Photos and listing copy show what a seller wants you to see. Direct questions show how transparent that seller is, and their willingness to answer specifically often tells you more than the answers themselves. Use the checklist below for any agarwood, oud oil or bead purchase.
Why asking works
A reputable seller can usually answer questions about origin, grade and sourcing quickly and specifically, because they already know these details about their stock. A seller who is vague, defensive or gives a different answer each time is showing you something useful: either they do not know what they are selling, or they would rather you did not look too closely. Either way, it is worth knowing before you pay.
Origin and sourcing
- Is it wild or plantation grown? This affects price and legality more than almost anything else, as covered in wild vs plantation agarwood.
- Which country and region is it from? "Southeast Asian agarwood" is not an answer. The regional guides in Origins & Varieties explain what a named origin should mean.
- Which species? A seller who knows will usually say, while accepting that species cannot be confirmed by looking at the wood.
- How do you know? Direct sourcing, a known distiller or a wholesaler's word are very different levels of confidence.
Grade and quality
- What grading system do you use, and what does your grade mean? Terms like "super" or "grade A" are not standardised, as covered in how agarwood is graded.
- For chips: does it sink, partly sink or float? And has it been treated in any way?
- Can you show photos of the actual piece? Not stock images, and ideally including a broken or cut edge.
Want to know what you are checking for before you ask?
Fake oud: what to look forQuestions by product
- Oil: Is it 100 percent oud oil, or a blend or attar? Is the oud natural or synthetic? Who distilled it, by what method, and when? Has it been tested, for example by GC-MS? See buying oud oil.
- Beads: Are they carved from solid wood or pressed from powder? Have they been dyed, oiled or scented? What is the bead size and count? See buying agarwood beads.
- Chips: Is this from one piece of wood or a mix? Is the scent natural, or has anything been added?
Documentation, CITES and returns
- What paperwork comes with it? For commercial quantities crossing borders, CITES export permits are required, as covered in agarwood and CITES explained. Small personal purchases often come without them, which is normal.
- Will you ship to my country, and who handles import rules? Some countries apply stricter rules than CITES.
- What is your return policy? Many fragrance sellers do not accept returns once a bottle is opened. Get the policy in writing before you pay.
Reading the answers
Specific, consistent answers given readily are a good sign. Vague answers, answers that contradict the listing, or reluctance to answer at all are reasons to slow down, as covered in red flags when buying agarwood. Our directory records the sourcing and testing claims suppliers make, flagged as unverified until we can confirm them, so it can help you prepare your questions, though it does not replace asking.
How we checked this. This is a practical checklist. CITES points follow the guidance covered in our CITES guide. We corrected the draft's description of the directory, which records claims rather than vetting sellers.